When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.
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Monica Leonard
Monica Leonard
Monica Leonard